Guide to build your own CSP

Alright, lets build a CHIP-station-Portable.

This guide is meant to support every chipster building a CSP. I’ve already published a photos in the section “Build protocol for version 2” of this blog post so please make sure that you read this guide as well as it explains some details about the display frame modification that I won’t cover in this extended guide.

  1. Prepare your CHIP for the CSP (can be done without the CSP board)
    1. install git to download all required files:

      sudo apt update && sudo apt install git;
      cd /opt/;
      git clone https://github.com/KoljaWindeler/CHIP-dt-overlays.git;
      /opt/CHIP-dt-overlays/database/update.sh;

    2. optional but highly recommended: Install extra goodies for the CSP

      git clone https://github.com/KoljaWindeler/CHIP_STATION_PORTABLE.git;

    3. Add this blink-script to the autostart

      1. sudo nano /etc/rc.local
      2. add “/opt/CHIP_STATION_PORTABLE/scripts/blink.sh&” (without quotes) right in front of the “exit 0” line
      3. save and exit (ctrl + o, enter, ctrl + x)

  2. Remove everything from your PSP until you just have the two boards for the buttons and the charge plug left. Cut the connector from the Speaker and the power jack and remove some of their insulation. (Tip: I simply cracked the plastic of speaker connector, to avoid that I have to remove the insulation which seamed complicated.)
  3.  Flip the CSP over and insert it into the housing. The flatband cable from the button pcb should line up more or less with the connectors
  4. Plug those flexible flat wires of the button PCB into the connector, be carefull as they tend to break
  5. Solder the two wires from the power jack to the board. I’ve measured that the LEFT cable of the power jack was Vin and the RIGHT was GND, but
    double check that with a multimeter!
  6. Next step is to connect the Speaker to their pads on the board (Labeled L+ / Li // R+ / R-)
  7. My next step was to prepare the battery wires, simply solder two long wires to the pads and feed them to the front
  8. Now attache a screw in the bottom right and one on the top left, to hold the pcb in place. You may have to bend the housing a little bit to get the screw hole lined up
  9. Add the display frame to the CSP
  10. Try to open the big 40-pin display connector, mine didn’t open. I’ve removed the frame again and cut off a mini-tiny bit of plastic to make it move
  11. If the display connector works fine, fix the frame with a screw and double check that the left pad is still hooked up to the frame (mine wasn’t in this picture). The button pad should feel stable when you push it down
  12. Make sure that your battery cables aren’t squeezed under the display frame. It thats the case (as shown here), move them a bit higher
  13. Next, prepare the power connector of the display. I didn’t find a compatible 4 pin zif connector for the PSP display. So I’ve soldered two wires to my board and did the same for every CSP that I’ve tested. You can reuse those wires, solder new ones, try to unsolder the original connector from your PSP (didn’t work for me) ..
  14. Connect the display with the big 40 pin cable
  15. The power pins will line up with the power connector. I’ve taped them on the connector, soldered both wires (left to left, righ to right, the two center pins aren’t connected on my display), and finally tape them again.
  16. Flip the display over, push it down until it sits firm
  17. Now would be a good time to install CHIP for a test run. My power supply was to weak to power CHIP and the display without a battery, so be aware that you might need one for this test run.
  18. After you’ve been happy for a few minutes, lets go on .. (this would be a good time to test the buttons (at least the two shoulder buttons)
  19. Power it off, install the buttons bar below the display and add the two transparent should buttons
  20. Now install the top of the housing, make sure that you align the menu-bar-buttons correct before you push the top down
  21. Add some screws but don’t tighten them up to hard or your shoulder buttons won’t move anymore
  22. Shorten your battery wires, solder them to the battery and insert it (not really shown in this picture)
  23. Boot up your CSP and test all the features
    1. Test the speakers – two ssh sessions:
      (1) speakertest
      (2) /opt/CHIP_STATION_PORTABLE/scripts/speaker_mute.sh
      (2) /opt/CHIP_STATION_PORTABLE/scripts/speaker_unmute.sh
    2. Test the inputs:
      sudo apt install xinput
      export XAUTHORITY=/home/chip/.Xauthority
      export DISPLAY=:0

      root@chip203:~# sudo xinput
      ⎡ Virtual core pointer id=2 [master pointer (3)]
      ⎜ ↳ Virtual core XTEST pointer id=4 [slave pointer (2)]
      ⎜ ↳ 1c25000.rtp id=7 [slave pointer (2)]
      ⎣ Virtual core keyboard id=3 [master keyboard (2)]
      ↳ Virtual core XTEST keyboard id=5 [slave keyboard (3)]
      ↳ mykeypad id=6 [slave keyboard (3)]
      ↳ axp20x-pek id=8 [slave keyboard (3)]

      Note the id of “mykeypad” ( here 6)

      root@chip203:~# sudo xinput test 6
      key press 37
      key release 37
      key press 64
      key release 64
      key press 113
      key release 113
      key press 111
      key release 111
      key press 114
      ….

    3. Tigger the power button – CSP will shut down!
  24. Install emulators and have lots of fun 🙂

3 Comments

  1. HI JKW — I’m a happy owner of a v2 CSP board and FINALLY getting the time to sit and build this.

    So build went pretty well til I got to the little wires to power the LCD panel. JKW, I managed to snap the fine wires that you provided and my soldering iron tip isn’t fine enough to get a clean solder connection to the fine pitch tracks on the header on the board. In fact I managed to de-laminate (break off) one of the tracks trying to solder on the tracks near the connector

    Are the two power lines (Power and Ground ??) for the LCD available anywhere else on the CSP v2.0 board that might be easier to solder to? That would really help if I could pick up those signals elsewhere

    Stuck for the moment

    Thanks
    Richard

  2. Looking at the LCD panel datasheet you included in the Github, I think the two connections are VLED- and VLED+. (pages 4 & 11). I’m not immediately seeing what voltages those are. Page 9 says V-BL = V-Backlight (“9 LEDs”) is 28.8V.

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